Відео

Just oil. The bees will chase the beetles into whatever crevices are available. These traps provide crevices that are lethal to beetles, but too small for bees to fit into.

@@tjhowse Thanks.

Thanks for the kind words! Funny you should mention an RPG, I originally got this idea from Numenera, a tabletop RPG: ua-cam.com/video/by-dgIaPj68/v-deo.html

Thanks for the ideas! I do want to set this system up again sometime and try a few more things. Check out this newer video in the series for a heating rack I built: ua-cam.com/video/RvJgVv9kXG4/v-deo.html

I'm not sure if I understand. Do you have a diagram or video of your setup? The belts aren't there for reduction - they're there to pass the torque through to the moving parts without slip rings.

@@tjhowse I have the arms mounted directly to the output shaft of the stepper. i.e. the arms have a hole that the splined shaft of the stepper fits into. So when the stepper rotates its shaft, the arm rotates. I don't have a video on it or anything, i have not seen anyone do it this way, they all have gears or belts from the stepper to the arms. I can email you a pic of my setup if that helps. Is your email on the youtube channel?

@@murraymadness4674 So you have one stepper mounted to the base, with an arm attached to that stepper. The second stepper is mounted to the first arm, and the second arm is mounted to the second stepper? How do you get power to the second stepper? I'm not sure I'm understanding properly.

@@tjhowse In my case I just run the second arm servo wires along the first arm. you must need continuous rotation? So then you can use the slip rings for the second servo, or power it with a battery and send the positioning to it wireless, say using a esp8266. The sand drawing is cool having the ball move 'by itself'. But then it limits the picture to have a continuous line, and thought can you make the ball levitate using a negative force field to position it to another spot without writing in the sand? That would be even more fascinating, make it jump from one spot to another. And will the ball be covered with something that looks like a bug?

Transmitting stepper control lines through a slip ring is theoretically possible, but it's a noisy, relatively high-power, signal that is intolerant of momentary interruptions. Far more challenging and expensive than using belt driven pulleys. The same applies for the battery+wireless approach. These are all solvable problems, but belts are cheap and work great. On the other hand; magnetically levitating a non a non-spinning object at room temperature is currently impossible.

I ended up getting my own caper cat too haha

That's awesome! We haven't taken ours out in a while due to weather and holidays. Gotta get back out there soon.

Mine eventually had this problem too. I attributed it to a failed starter capacitor or switch. I got a refund and bought a new one.

That might actually work! The challenge would be making sure it didn't take on the flavours of other stuff in the freezer, or otherwise degrade flavour-wise by extended exposure to cold air.

@@tjhowse I had a strange idea, but here goes: Put whatever you want to freeze-dry in an airtight Mason jar with lots of desiccant packets, Freeze it for a year Profit

@@MisterBones223Silica gel works well for getting very very low levels of moisture. It isn't good at removing a large VOLUME of moisture though. If you put them in with something that's relatively dry, they'll keep it dry. However if you put them with something with a lot of water in it the silica gel will quickly become saturated and stop absorbing moisture. It might work if you kept swapping out the packets and cycling them through an oven to dry them out.

@tjhowse I'd personally use dehydrated epsom salts Epsom salts can take a large volume of water Shucks, I should experiment with it and yet you know how it goes

I never did get to the bottom of the problem with this pump. A few weeks after this video the motor burned out. I got a refund and bought a slightly larger version that has worked perfectly well. It still gets hot, but doesn't cut out from overheating. I'd imagine you'd get quickly diminishing returns by adding further stages. It wouldn't pump down any faster, and the quality of the vacuum would be limited by factors other than the number of stages. Getting deeper vacuums would be done with a turbomolecular pump, since at these low pressures air molecules act more like balls ping-ponging around inside the volume rather than a gas.

I wrote an interface between the SH5k-20 and MQTT: github.com/tjhowse/modbus4mqtt . I use nodered to manage the logic behind force dis/charging the battery. It's strange that amber don't support the SH5k-20, the control interface is almost the same as the SH5.0RS that they do support. If you're Brisbane-based it might be worth having a chat to Ian at powston.com.au/

About 1.2kg per frame, on average.

I designed it. There's a link to the CAD in the description of the video. Batteries not included!

Faster honey collection!

That particular bit is fixed, but there's always more things to improve! Right now I'm re-sealing the mast top float. Then I'll probably replace the main halyard jam cleat on the mast. It's not very grippy anymore.

Check out the later videos in this playlist: ua-cam.com/video/zAjN-2I231E/v-deo.html I never actually put a clockface on it. Most of the fun for me was getting all the mechanical stuff understood.

Thanks for the tips! The flip-up rudders are a great feature of the hobies. I'd love a pair on our boat.

Cheers!

Under AUD$1 of plastic, I would estimate. Obviously more if it were printed with thicker spokes.

It's pretty simple inside. There's a centrifugal starter switch and capacitor and an overtemp cutoff switch.

@@tjhowse ok tkanks , I just have one that has had the case broken and some wires were disconnected, trying to figure out where the wires go

Hey! I've just pushed up DXFs for all the lasercut parts here: github.com/tjhowse/sand_drawing/tree/master/scad/lasercut_v2_dxfs . I don't yet have any updated documentation to show how these parts go together. I hope the videos will be sufficient documentation until I can put together something better.

I do need to update the docs to reflect the new lasercut design. I'm not sure if I'm going to go back and update the 3d printed version. I'm running long-term durability tests now to make sure nothing wears out too quickly. Once I'm done with that I'll put together some updated docs and make a build video.

@@tjhowsea build video would be excellent. Thank you so much I can’t wait for it.

@@nicksantitoro Hey! I've just pushed up DXFs for all the lasercut parts here: github.com/tjhowse/sand_drawing/tree/master/scad/lasercut_v2_dxfs . I don't yet have any updated documentation to show how these parts go together. I hope the videos will be sufficient documentation until I can put together something better.

Kinda! Check out a later video in this series. I rig up a chiller to cool the ethanol rather than dry ice. It works much better and is far less expensive. ua-cam.com/video/7W1A2OV-K6g/v-deo.html

Haha, I've barely got mine working. It's pretty far from an actual product. I'll probably come back to this project when it's time to do some harvesting on our hives.